Berlin: Embracing Its History
Germany’s capital is a dynamic mix of modernity and history, with an international vibe that rivals cities like London and Paris.
Berlin truly feels like a world of its own, shaped profoundly by the weight of its history. You can still see echoes of the World War II era, the Allied and Soviet occupations, and of course, the infamous Berlin Wall of the Cold War. But Berliners, rather than shy away from their past, have embraced it. They’ve opted for transparency, revealing their history rather than concealing it. You won’t find Adolf Hitler’s bunker, though—it’s been replaced by a completely ordinary apartment parking lot. A far cry from its notorious past, yet a symbol of how far the city has come.
After the reunification of East and West Germany, Berlin reclaimed its place as the political heart of the nation, all the while maintaining its charm as a hub for bohemians, artists, and eccentrics. Today, it’s as cosmopolitan and forward-thinking as any major global city.
The Brandenburg Gate
The Brandenburg Gate (or Brandenburger Tor) is one of Berlin’s most iconic landmarks. Built between 1788 and 1791 by architect Carl Gotthard Langhans for King Frederick William II of Prussia, it was inspired by the Propylaea of the Athenian Acropolis. For nearly three decades, it was a symbol of division, caught in the path of the Berlin Wall, but it now stands as a symbol of unity. A must-see for any visitor.
Traces of the Wall
As someone who grew up during the Cold War, I’ve always been fascinated by the Berlin Wall, and it was amazing to walk along its former path, sometimes without even realising it. The scar it left has mostly healed now, with only a few traces remaining, like Checkpoint Charlie (which is now swamped by a massive McDonald’s) and the Tränenpalast (“Palace of Tears”), a reconstructed checkpoint at a nearby train station. Once you step into what used to be East Berlin, you’ll see luxury stores like Galeries Lafayette and Gucci—nothing like the austere city it once was.
During my stay, I was fortunate enough to stay with a local couple in an old Stalinist apartment, just steps from Karl-Marx-Allee, a grand boulevard that takes you back in time. I was reminded of the city’s former life as part of the Soviet sphere, with nearby landmarks like the Moscow Restaurant and the towering Berliner Fernsehturm (East Germany’s TV tower).
One of my hosts shared the fascinating story of how he’d discovered his Stasi file—an official record kept by East Germany’s secret police. His neighbour had reported him for “making jokes at the pharmacy”—a comment that, in the surveillance state of East Germany, was deemed worth documenting. He also recalled the emotional moment he told his father, in November 1989, that the Wall was coming down. It was the only time his father ever shed a tear. Conversations like these are what make staying with locals so memorable—what you learn can be both personal and profound.
The DDR Museum
If you’re curious about life in East Germany, the DDR Museum in Berlin-Mitte is a fascinating stop. Located along the Spree River, right across from Berlin Cathedral, this interactive museum gives you a glimpse into everyday life in the German Democratic Republic. Visitors can even get a taste of history by posing for photos behind the wheel of a Trabant, the iconic car of the East.
The museum’s former restaurant, which served meals just like those enjoyed by the communist elite, closed in 2013—another casualty of a free market economy.
A City of Museums
Berlin is a treasure trove for museum lovers. Art, history, culture, and espionage—there’s something for everyone. Naturally, I couldn’t resist visiting the Spy Museum. Berlin, with its history as a hotspot for intelligence activity, is the perfect place to dive into the world of espionage. I was especially taken with the original Enigma machine, hollow-soled shoes, and a pipe designed to conceal microfilm. Fascinating stuff!
Willy Brandt
If you’re interested in politics and European history, I highly recommend visiting the Willy Brandt Centre. Brandt, one of Germany’s most influential post-war politicians, was a major advocate for European unity. His legacy is often overlooked, but his work laid the groundwork for the peaceful reunification of East and West Germany.
Another key stop for history buffs is the Bundestag, the German parliament. Heavily damaged during the Nazi era and later occupied by Soviet forces, it still bears the marks of its turbulent history, including graffiti left by Russian soldiers. It’s a poignant reminder of the past—and to visit, you’ll need to book tickets well in advance.
Culinary Berlin
No trip to Berlin is complete without sampling the city’s culinary delights. Try a Berliner Kindl beer and indulge in the iconic currywurst—sliced sausage smothered in a tangy curry sauce. It’s a post-war invention that’s as beloved in Berlin as poutine is in Canada. It’s definitely worth a try—though you might want to enjoy it in moderation (apart from the beer, of course).
A Unique Souvenir
If you’re looking for a quintessential Berlin souvenir, look no further than the Ampelmännchen, the quirky East Berlin pedestrian crossing symbol. Designed in the 1960s, the figure’s distinctive hat and determined stride have made it an icon. You’ll find it everywhere—from hats to keychains to phone cases. It’s like a secret badge of honour for those in the know.
Final Thoughts
Did I enjoy my time in Berlin? Absolutely. Would I go back? Without hesitation. Would I recommend it? Yes, without a doubt.
In a few words: Berlin is at the crossroads of 20th-century European history—truly a city that embraces its past while charging forward into the future.