Stunning Views Over Bratislava and the Danube
Czechoslovakia hasn’t been a thing since 1993. Two countries emerged that day, and now, fresh from my stop in Hungary, I find myself in Bratislava—the capital of Slovakia. It’s a lovely city—spotless, easy to get to from Budapest or Vienna by riverboat, and it thrives on tourism from its neighbours.
Once again, I turn to Airbnb for a place to crash. For a pretty modest sum—about 60 quid—I bag myself a freshly renovated flat with all the mod cons and a cracking view over the new town.
My host, a 25-year-old entrepreneur, owns the entire building and is chuffed to bits about it. We chat about history and geography, and he proudly points out the hotel where Mikhail Gorbachev stayed in 1987. Incredibly, he even knows my little home archipelago, Saint-Pierre-et-Miquelon—turns out he collects number plates and has a thing for rare ones.
A Charming Capital
Time to explore this charming European capital, where embassies are squeezed between an almost ridiculous number of bars, terraces, cafés, and restaurants.
If you’re a sucker for a good view, I highly recommend trekking up to the castle on the hill—Bratislavský hrad. From there, you get a spectacular panorama of the city and the bridge spanning the Danube, topped with a bizarre UFO-shaped tower.
Bratislava really comes alive in the evenings. One quirky little detail: a green laser beam, positioned about 4 or 5 metres above ground, zigzags through the old town’s main streets via a clever system of mirrors from Michael’s Gate (Michalská brána).
A Quiet Bar… or So I Thought
During my wanderings, I stumble upon a cosy little bar with an impressively long counter. The owner is from the Middle East, my neighbour is Zimbabwean, another guy’s Italian, and we chat away in English and French about everything and nothing.
At last, I’ve found a peaceful spot to unwind—until, bam! It’s 11 p.m., a bell rings, and suddenly the bar transforms into a nightclub. No joke—the counter bar morphs into a dance floor. I pay up and make my escape, eventually finding a quiet neighbourhood pub where I can jot down some notes in my journal under a thick cloud of cigarette smoke.
Bronze Statues Everywhere
The next day, I continue my Bratislava adventure, attempting to count the sheer number of bronze statues scattered around the city. There’s one emerging from a manhole, another slumped on a bench, and even a Napoleonic soldier striking a pose outside the French Embassy.
It’s Sunday, and by pure chance, I stumble upon a chess tournament in Hviezdoslav Square. Men, women, kids—Jewish, Muslim, Catholic—it doesn’t matter. What counts here is knowing how to open with the Italian Game, the Sicilian, Ruy-Lopez, or the Slav Defence.
I get a real kick out of watching an eight-year-old boy effortlessly thrash two seasoned adults. I wisely resist the temptation to join in—my Elo rating says no.
The Verdict
- Did I enjoy it? Absolutely.
- Would I go back? Nah, I’ve seen what I wanted to see.
- Would I recommend it? Definitely—worth a visit if you’re passing through, but probably not as a main destination.
In a nutshell: A cracking little city—pleasant, lively, and full of character.