A Whirlwind Weekend in Dallas and Fort Worth
Sixty hours in the United States—sounds intense, right? With a Friday evening departure and a Monday morning return, we decided to spend a November weekend exploring Dallas and Fort Worth.
Let’s be honest—Dallas is not a classic tourist city like New York, Chicago, or San Francisco. It’s a tough nut to crack, a city that doesn’t immediately reveal its charms. But for American history buffs, it holds undeniable significance: this is where President John F. Kennedy was assassinated on 22 November 1963. More on that later.
Downtown Dallas: Highways and High Rises
Surrounded by a web of elevated highways (I-75, I-30, I-396, I-35), Dallas’s financial and administrative district isn’t exactly a delight for pedestrians—except for one infamous landmark, Dealey Plaza. The main arteries—Elm, Main, and Commerce Streets—form a rather sterile, businesslike centre.
A little further east, beyond I-75, is Deep Ellum, a neighbourhood with a mix of antique shops, tattoo parlours, nightclubs, and casual eateries. It’s the city’s trendy, alternative hub, though it does have its edgier moments.
To the northwest of downtown, you’ll find the Arts District, home to the magnificent Dallas Museum of Art. This world-class museum offers impressive permanent collections and engaging temporary exhibits. Back in November 2012, we had the chance to see an exhibition on vintage Parisian advertising posters from the era of Toulouse-Lautrec.
Right next to the museum is Klyde Warren Park, an innovative green space built on top of a buried highway ramp. Popular with families, joggers, and picnic-goers, it’s a fantastic urban escape.
Hop on a Historic Tram!
For history and urbanism enthusiasts, the McKinney Avenue Trolley is a must. This vintage streetcar line loops from the Arts District to the upscale West Village, passing along McKinney Avenue, home to high-end shopping, bars, and restaurants. Four beautifully restored trams—Rosie, Green Dragon, Matilda, and Petunia—run this free service.
Further north, at the intersection of Oak Lawn Avenue and Cedar Springs Road, you’ll find Dallas’s LGBTQ+ district, where bars like JR’s and Sue Ellen’s keep the nightlife lively.
If you’re staying in a hotel near Market Center, Stemmons Freeway, or Harry Hines Boulevard, be prepared for a bit of a trek to downtown. Walking is doable but not particularly enjoyable, so check with your hotel to see if they offer a shuttle service to nearby attractions.
The Kennedy Assassination: A City Marked by History
You can’t visit Dallas or Fort Worth without being constantly reminded of the event that shook a nation. This isn’t the place for us to take a stance on conspiracy theories, but let’s just say—you’ll hear them.
In Fort Worth, outside the Hilton Hotel (formerly the Texas Hotel), stands a memorial marking the place where JFK spent his final night. But the heart of the historical pilgrimage is in Dallas, at Dealey Plaza.
Here, you’ll find:
- The Sixth Floor Museum, a comprehensive yet sombre exhibition housed in the very building from which Lee Harvey Oswald is said to have fired the fatal shots. The infamous window is enclosed in glass, with book boxes arranged just as they were in 1963. Photography is strictly forbidden, adding to the solemn atmosphere.
- The Grassy Knoll, where countless theorists will happily (and loudly) share their take on what “really happened.”
- Opportunists selling questionable souvenirs and conspiracy pamphlets.
- Tourists foolishly attempting to take selfies on the X marking the spot where JFK was shot—dangerous and tasteless in equal measure.
The museum presents the various conspiracy theories without descending into outright speculation. One of the most intriguing exhibits is the scale model of Dealey Plaza, originally used by the controversial Warren Commission.