The last city on my journey, I had already been warned in Vienna: “Prague is like Disney!” And they weren’t exaggerating! Everywhere, you’re swarmed by herds of tourists following guides armed with microphones and flags. They come from China, Russia, Spain—selfie sticks raised, earphones in, ready to experience mass tourism at full speed.
Want to cross Charles Bridge (Karlův most) in less than 20 minutes during the day? Impossible.
Want to see the astronomical clock? Step aside—there are a thousand others trying to capture the moment it strikes the hour for Instagram.
Kafka
Want to see Franz Kafka’s head rotating on itself? Well, that’s a bit quieter. You’ve successfully escaped the beaten path thanks to your knowledge of the local tram system. A point for you.
It is said that Prague has one of the most beautiful libraries in the world, but I didn’t manage to visit the Clementinum. Instead, I settled for the Strahov Monastery Library. If you can, try to access the Clementinum—the monastery’s library doesn’t compare at all. While interesting, it’s simply not the same. Sometimes, schedules play tricks on you!
KGB
I’ve mentioned KGB museums in other countries, particularly in the Baltic States, where you can see torture chambers and execution rooms. But in Prague, don’t be misled—this KGB museum is nothing like those.
Here, an eccentric character will enthusiastically recount his version of 20th-century history, heavily emphasizing the Red Army’s triumphs. With his Russian accent, he’ll hand you a Kalashnikov for a photo op and then explain how to kill a man with a piece of wire.
Visitors stare in awe at the energy of this museum’s owner, who has assembled a bizarre collection of weapons, uniforms, propaganda posters, and statuettes.
When I left, I glanced at another tourist, who looked just as bewildered as I was. Our expressions alone spoke volumes, transcending any language barrier. I can only strongly recommend this experience—it will definitely take you out of your comfort zone!
Apple
Prague is also home to an Apple Museum—yes, the computer company! It’s a private collection showcasing the golden age of the Apple II GS, Lisa, the first iMacs, tablets, and phones. Every model is represented. It’s as pristine as an Apple Store, minus the salespeople and crowds of broke teenagers, of course.
For this second-to-last stop on my journey, I stayed in an apartment in Prague’s old Jewish quarter.
By skillfully avoiding the tourist hordes, I managed to:
- Attend a baroque and classical music concert in the stunning Spanish Synagogue.
- Dine at the same restaurant as Michelle Obama and Benjamin Netanyahu—King Solomon.
- Have a drink (or two) in neighborhood bars.
- Enjoy goulash in a small bar-restaurant while listening to a retired chemical engineer play jazz, French chansons, and Russian classics for American and Russian tourists—and me.
From Sinatra to Piaf, with a stop at the famous Katyusha—what a fantastic way to wrap up my time in Prague! Don’t forget to tip the pianist at the Golem Restaurant on Maiselova Street.
Negative Unemployment
Through my contacts, I met a colleague who has lived in Prague for many years to learn more about the city and the Czech Republic.
It turns out this country has negative unemployment! Industries struggle to retain enough workers. They recruit from France and Germany, particularly in hospitality, but some workers report difficulties integrating, saying the culture and people can be somewhat closed off to foreigners.
After our meeting, I ventured into a part of the city rarely visited by tourists and stumbled upon an open-air exhibition about the crushing of the Prague Spring in 1968. Some wounds never heal. This installation was highly educational, featuring photographs, films, and even Soviet-era tanks.
Skoda
On the way to the airport, my driver, Petr, pointed at an old, boxy car in the next lane that looked like it was made of papier-mâché. He grinned and said proudly, “Very old Skoda—this new Skoda!”
A perfect summary of the country’s post-Soviet economic transformation, illustrated by the stark contrast between these two cars.
Thus ended a 32-day journey, across 11 countries, 4 currencies, and countless planes, boats, shuttles, buses, and trains—filled with unforgettable memories.
I can’t wait to embark on another adventure next summer! Oh, wait—what’s this credit card statement? Oh wow… Yeah, that adds up.
Verdict
- Did I love it? Yes, but less so the overwhelming tourist crowds—it feels like Disney in summer.
- Would I go back? Without hesitation—but in spring or autumn.