Exploring Buenos Aires: A City of Culture, History, and Hidden Gems
The Buenos Aires Metro: A Ride Through Time
With its five (soon to be six) lines, the Buenos Aires Metro—known as the Subte—is one of the most practical ways to navigate Argentina’s bustling capital. It boasts both one of the oldest metro lines in South America (Line A) and one of the most modern. You might hop on a charming wooden carriage from a bygone era, only to find yourself minutes later in a sleek, state-of-the-art train that rivals those of London, Paris, or New York.
Two compelling reasons to take the Subte: city buses are not only overcrowded but also part of a particularly complex semi-private network, and taxis can be hit or miss. While efforts have been made to crack down on dishonest cab drivers, there’s still a chance you could be handed counterfeit banknotes as change. No need to be paranoid—most drivers are perfectly trustworthy—but it’s worth being aware.
Top Tips for Using the Metro
- Get a ‘Subte’ card. This magnetic card, available at all stations, allows for cheap and convenient travel.
- Stay alert. Pickpocketing is a real concern, so keep your valuables out of sight, dress modestly, and avoid loud conversations in foreign languages.
- Mind the tracks. Unlike Buenos Aires’ road traffic, which drives on the right, the metro runs on the left!
From the Airport to the City Centre
Your choices are simple: rent a car or take an official Taxi Ezeiza (look for the blue-and-white signs). This company has a central kiosk at the airport where you prepay your fare, including the airport tax. Their drivers are usually friendly and reliable—I always ask for Daniel Lambré, an exceptionally attentive and honest chauffeur.
The journey to central Buenos Aires takes under an hour, giving you a glimpse of lesser-visited neighbourhoods where working-class Argentinians live. Tipping is not required but is always appreciated. If you have US dollars, now’s the time to use them—Argentinians have limited access to foreign currency, and drivers will be particularly grateful for the stronger cash.
El Ateñeo Grand Splendid: A Bookshop Like No Other
At 1860 Avenida Santa Fe, in the elegant Recoleta district, stands what might just be the most beautiful bookshop in the world. Once a grand theatre that opened in 1919, El Ateneo hosted legendary tango performers like Carlos Gardel, Francisco Canaro, and Roberto Firpo.
In 1929, the theatre became a cinema, and in the 2000s, it was transformed into a breathtaking bookshop. More than a million visitors pass through its doors each year, browsing an extensive selection of books and music. With over 2,000 square metres of space and hundreds of thousands of titles, El Ateneo is a must-visit for anyone interested in Argentine culture.
Managed by the company Tematika, the bookshop stays open until 10 pm on weekdays and midnight on Saturdays. Check their website for the latest opening hours.
Havanna & The Famous Alfajores
In Buenos Aires, you might think the economy revolves around three things: pharmacies, fast food, and Havanna shops. Jokes aside, Havanna is famous for its delicious alfajores—chocolate-covered biscuits filled with rich, creamy dulce de leche.
These shops double as cosy cafés offering puddings, cookies, and chocolate treats known as havannets. You’ll spot their distinctive yellow-and-red logo all over the city, especially in Recoleta, where at least eight locations line the avenues of Santa Fe, Pueyrredón, Córdoba, Rodríguez Peña, and Bullrich. If you’re in San Telmo, you’ll find two stores, including one on Calle Defensa. Why not stop for a sweet treat?
Teatro Colón: A Jewel of the Performing Arts
At the heart of Buenos Aires stands the world-renowned Teatro Colón, an opera house that has hosted some of the greatest performances since its inauguration in the early 20th century. With over 3,000 seats, it regularly stages classical concerts, ballet, and opera, featuring the Orquesta Filarmónica de Buenos Aires.
Contrary to what you might expect, the main entrance isn’t on the grand Avenida 9 de Julio but on Calle Libertad. The theatre’s eclectic architectural style blends Italian and French Baroque influences. After a four-year renovation, it reopened in May 2010.
You can visit the theatre before 5 pm, but why settle for just a tour when you can experience a world-class performance for a surprisingly affordable price? The best seats often cost less than €80/$100—a bargain for such high-calibre shows. In March 2012, I watched Nadja Salerno-Sonnenberg perform Shostakovich’s Violin Concerto No. 2 with the OFBA—an unforgettable experience!
The Carlos Gardel Museum
If you know anything about Argentine culture and tango, you’ve surely heard of Carlos Gardel, the most iconic tango singer of the 20th century. His face is everywhere in Buenos Aires, representing the golden era of pre-war tango.
A modest but charming museum dedicated to him can be found in Almagro, between Avenida Córdoba and Corrientes. Inside, you’ll find rare posters, vintage records, and a tiny cinema room showing Gardel’s film appearances. Nestled opposite a car garage, this little gem is well worth a visit!
Beware of Tourist Scams
Despite dodging many small scams, I once fell for the infamous DHL stamp trick. Like many travellers, I enjoy sending postcards. While shopping near the Recoleta Cemetery, I was offered stamps at the checkout. Thinking it would save me the hassle of long queues at the post office, I bought them—only to later discover they were DHL stamps, not postal stamps!
When I asked where to post my stamped cards, the shop assistant vaguely pointed to a small metal box under the postcard display. The result? Some postcards took three months to arrive (if they arrived at all), stamped not in Argentina but in Mexico. Lesson learned: next time, I’ll queue at the post office!
Palacio Paz: A Taste of Versailles in Buenos Aires
Lovers of architecture will find plenty to admire in Buenos Aires. One of its finest buildings is the Palacio Paz, once owned by the wealthy Gainza Paz family and now part of the Círculo Militar (a club for retired Argentine military officers).
The palace’s lavishly decorated rooms reflect a Franco-Baroque style, reminiscent of Versailles or the Louvre. Located at 750 Avenida Santa Fe in the Retiro district, it’s open to the public for guided tours.
Argentine Politics: Topics to Tread Lightly
Exploring a new country often sparks conversations with locals. But a word of caution: some topics in Argentina are highly sensitive.
Avoid criticising Argentina’s claim over the Falklands, and don’t justify the military dictatorship of the 1970s as a defence against communism—these are deeply emotional issues. Instead, approach with curiosity: observe the many posters, flags, books, and slogans supporting the Falklands claim, and ask open-ended questions rather than offering strong opinions.
A little tact goes a long way. Listen to what taxi drivers, hotel staff, or guides have to say—you might be surprised by their perspectives!
Touring Argentina’s Government Buildings
For political history enthusiasts, two must-visit sites are the Casa Rosada (Presidential Palace) and the Congreso de la Nación Argentina.
The Casa Rosada, standing on Plaza de Mayo, symbolises the fusion of Argentina’s historic political factions—its pink hue blending the red of the Federalists and the white of the Unitarians. Behind it, a modern museum explores Argentina’s political history.
Meanwhile, the Congress offers tours of the Senate and Chamber of Deputies, as well as a stunning library. Tours, conducted in Spanish, typically run Monday to Friday at 10 am, noon, 4 pm, and 6 pm.