Poland: From War and Communism to a Reclaimed Identity
I arrived in Warsaw by train from Berlin, and let’s just say, finding my seat was an adventure in itself. Apparently, the number on my ticket was written in German, which led to a four-person effort to locate it—featuring an American from Ohio, a Polish lawyer, a grumpy fellow, and, of course, the rightful owner of the seat I was comfortably occupying. No harm done—I made a few new acquaintances along the way.
First Impressions: Stalin’s “Gift”
Stepping out of Warszawa Centralna, the first thing that hit me was the monstrous Stalinist tower looming over the city—the Pałac Kultury i Nauki (Palace of Culture and Science). A “gift” from Stalin after WWII, this massive structure was built at breakneck speed as a symbol of Soviet domination. The Poles have mixed feelings about it, referring to it as “Stalin’s boot”, and many would have preferred to see it demolished.
And yet… the tower has somehow survived and integrated into Warsaw’s identity. Today, it houses a cinema, museums, a convention centre, and, at the top, an observatory with sweeping views over the city.
A City Rebuilt from Ashes
Warsaw was almost completely destroyed during World War II, yet its historic centre was painstakingly rebuilt—brick by brick, stone by stone—restoring its former charm for the pride of its inhabitants and the awe of visitors.
One word of warning: if you enjoy browsing antique shops, don’t be surprised to come across old Soviet and Nazi memorabilia—posters, medals, figurines, busts of dictators. A chilling reminder of Poland’s turbulent past.
The Jewish Ghetto: A History That Must Be Remembered
Warsaw is forever linked to the history of European Jewry, and no visit is complete without exploring the remains of the infamous ghetto. There are several excellent museums dedicated to this chapter of history, but the one I highly recommend is the Museum of the History of Polish Jews (POLIN).
Inside, you’ll find:
- Recreations of traditional synagogues
- An entire reconstructed Jewish street
- A powerful journey through the centuries-old history of Polish Jews
Just outside the museum stands the monument to the heroes of the ghetto, where German Chancellor Willy Brandt famously knelt in 1970—a deeply symbolic act of repentance that remains one of the most moving moments in post-war European history.
Chopin, Curie, and Polish Icons
Warsaw is also the city of Frédéric Chopin and Marie Skłodowska-Curie. Both have museums, but I’d only recommend the Chopin Museum—a must for classical music lovers, where you could easily lose yourself for hours.
Royalty and Religion
Back in the old town, I explored the Royal Castle of Poland (Zamek Królewski). Once the heart of the Polish monarchy, it’s now a meticulously restored palace with sumptuous rooms that transport you back in time.
And, of course, you can’t visit Poland without stepping into its churches. The Catholic Church played a monumental role in the country’s history, particularly in the anti-communist resistance of the 20th century. Even if you’re not religious, the sheer historical significance of these sites is undeniable.
A Long Bus Ride to Lithuania
From the 16th to the 18th century, Poland was part of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, a vast state that united these two nations. That history came to life when I took a 10-hour bus ride from Warsaw to Vilnius (or Wilno, as the Poles call it)—a long journey, but a fascinating one. Along the way, I noticed countless storks nesting on telephone poles, a sight that felt wonderfully symbolic of Eastern Europe’s countryside.
What to Bring Back?
If you’re after a souvenir, amber is the way to go. You’ll find necklaces, rings, earrings, pendants, and even prehistoric insects trapped in resin—a true collector’s dream.
Practical Tips
💰 Poland doesn’t use the euro—its currency is the złoty. Be sure to exchange money or withdraw from an ATM before heading out.
Verdict
✔ Did I like it? Yes, I’m glad I experienced Warsaw.
✖ Will I return? No, some places are best seen once.
✔ Do I recommend it? Yes, but also visit Kraków—my one regret is missing it.
📝 In a few words: A proud nation reclaiming its identity from a post-Soviet world.