Vilnius: A City Under the Influence
The moment I arrived in Vilnius, I crossed paths with a few French Expats, who gave me valuable insight into Lithuania’s complex recent history.
A former Soviet satellite, Lithuania is now a proudly independent nation, but remnants of the past still linger—particularly in the form of a Russian-speaking minority. Relations between ethnic Lithuanians and the descendants of former Soviet settlers can be tense, especially given Russia’s aggressive foreign policy. Many here keep a watchful eye on Ukraine, acutely aware of what could happen should their own minority groups be used as a political pretext for intervention.
The Horrors of the KGB
One of my first stops was a museum dedicated to the brutalities of the KGB—a sobering experience that laid bare the true horrors of Soviet repression. The prison cells spoke for themselves:
- Sleep deprivation cells where prisoners were kept awake for days.
- Torture chambers where detainees stood in freezing water up to their knees.
- Soundproof isolation rooms designed to break even the strongest minds.
And then, of course, the execution room—a chilling space where countless political prisoners met their end.
As we stood in silence, my companion, shaking his head, whispered:
“Less than 50 metres from people’s homes… and at the time, no one saw or heard a thing.”
Today, the names of the dead are carved into the stone walls of this building with a dark past, ensuring they are never forgotten.
The Republic of Užupis: An Artist’s Utopia
For a completely different vibe, I wandered into Užupis, a quirky, self-proclaimed “independent republic” within Vilnius. This bohemian enclave—often compared to Montmartre in Paris—was once an abandoned district, but today, it’s a haven for artists, creatives, and free spirits. There’s even a border sign, a constitution, and a president (though no one takes politics too seriously here).
Vilnius: A Mix of Styles
Vilnius itself is a city of contrasts. Its medieval old town is full of winding streets and Baroque churches, while its neoclassical neighbourhoods reflect a different era entirely. And then there’s the Soviet legacy—a scattering of stark, functionalist buildings that serve as a reminder of Lithuania’s not-so-distant past.
Final Advice: Taste Lithuania
If you visit, make sure to hunt down a restaurant serving the country’s beloved cold soup, Šaltibarščiai—a refreshing beetroot soup made with cucumbers, dill, and hard-boiled eggs. Can’t find a sit-down place? Pop into a local convenience store—you’ll get it for just a couple of euros.
Verdict
Did I like it? Absolutely—but then again, I have a soft spot for small countries.